Small Plates: Build a burger; cook with tomatoes

The latest salvo in Las Vegas’ upscale-burger wars has been fired by Burger Bistro, which offers countless design-your-own options. The starting point is one of six types of patty on a brioche or wheat bun, with lettuce, onion, tomato and dill pickle. Then you can get creative with toppings ranging from the commonplace, ketchup and mustard, to far more offbeat selections such as Barolo-braised short ribs and foie gras terrine with sweet apples. A variety of wines and 30 beer selections also are available. Here’s a sample from the menu:

Burgers: 10-ounce Angus, $10; Australian lamb with fresh mint, $11; tuna with Chinese five-spice powder, wasabi mayonnaise, pickled ginger and sweet chili cucumbers, $11; turkey with grilled tofu and roasted cranberry remoulade, $10; lump crabmeat, $15; vegetarian, $10

Toppings: condiments (Bistro Sauce, mayonnaise, relish, etc.), free; sharp cheddar, white American, blue, feta, pepperjack or Swiss cheese, $2; applewood-smoked bacon, chili or prosciutto, $3; avocado, caramelized onions, fried onion rings, jalapenos, grilled red peppers or sauteed portabella mushrooms, $2

Gourmet toppings: Barolo-braised short ribs, foie gras terrine with sweet apples, baked brie with double-smoked bacon or fried egg and Virginia ham, $5

Appetizers: Fajita nachos, $9; fried sweet pickles, $7; jalapeno poppers, $8

Salads: Classic chicken Caesar, $12; chilled spicy ranch vegetable, $13; ponzu Chinese chicken, $14

Hours are from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. Call 732-5111 or visit www.TheLVH.com.

NEW BOOKS FOR COOKS

TOMATO GRATIN

12 ounces plum tomatoes, cored and sliced into ¼-inch-thick rings

Salt and pepper

1/8 teaspoon sugar

¼ cup panko bread crumbs

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil (divided use)

1 small onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 small garlic clove, minced

½ teaspoon minced fresh thyme

Adjust oven racks to low-middle and upper-middle positions and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss tomatoes, ½ teaspoon salt and sugar together in a bowl until combined; let sit for 30 minutes. Combine panko, Parmesan, 2 teaspoons oil, 1/8 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper in a second bowl.

Heat remaining 2 teaspoons of oil in an 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Spread onion mixture in bottom of an 8½-by-5½-inch baking dish.

Transfer tomatoes to salad spinner and spin to remove excess moisture. Arrange tomatoes in even layer over onion mixture and sprinkle with a pinch of pepper. Transfer baking dish to lower-middle oven rack and bake until tomatoes are tender and starting to bubble, about 15 minutes. Sprinkle evenly with panko mixture, transfer to upper-middle oven rack and bake until topping is golden brown, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer gratin to wire rack and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 2.

— Recipe from “America’s Test Kitchen: Cooking for Two” (America’s Test Kitchen; $35)

— Heidi Knapp Rinella