Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast adds fun to the menu

I’ve been writing a lot lately about breakfast places. There’s been a proliferation of them because they seem to ably fill a niche in these time-pressed, still-economically-challenged times, with various groups opening outlets all over the valley. And in response to our collective increased sophistication and interest in good food, they serve fare that’s far beyond your average bacon and eggs.

There’s only one Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast, though, and I was a little long in getting to it in part because it’s somewhat distant from the area’s main population centers. After finally making the trek, I suggest you hie thee to Lulu’s, no matter where you live.

Lulu’s is from the Metro Pizza family, and the dedication to craft and attention to detail they have demonstrated over the years is reflected here as well. There are a few fairly commonplace offerings, but we looked beyond those and instantly gravitated to the more interesting stuff. That would include the Benecio Del Porko ($9.95), the witty name of which is only surpassed by the dish itself. A riff on a Benedict, it started with grilled cornbread that was topped with smoky, tender, deeply flavored pulled pork, plus charred corn flavored with cilantro, then topped with two over-easy eggs napped with hollandaise and drizzled with a smoky barbecue sauce. Yum, yum, yum.

But only a smidge better than the pastrami hash ($8). Normally we like pastrami to be extremely thinly sliced but this was perfect, in a thick julienne to make its flavor more prominent, sauteed with a profusion of vegetables and topped with two eggs to order, the excellent daily bread (country French on the day of our visit, and so good that we bought a loaf to take home) grilled and buttered and served on the side.

The Lulu’s Breakfast Burrito ($8) surpassed anything you may have had at a coffee shop or diner, the large tortilla folded around a mixture of creamy scrambled eggs mixed with roast pork with green chilies and layered with black beans, corn and pepper-jack cheese, then topped with tomatillo salsa, mild Cotija cheese and cilantro. The flavors and textures were multiple, the overall impression pretty kicky, for a fantastic conception and execution.

And The Goombah ($7.50), among the Egg on a Soft Roll sandwiches. This one was eggs-to-order with provolone and pancetta, and if that isn’t enough flavor for you, red onion jam, tomato and arugula.

We ate in a very attractive, quasi-Old-World/quasi-industrial environment, lots of brick and wood, and were served by the most friendly and enthusiastic bunch we’ve encountered in a while.

So yes, unlike the very good breakfast places whose numbers make them so convenient, there’s only one Lulu’s Bread & Breakfast, although I sincerely hope more are in the offing.

In the meantime, it truly is worth a drive.

Las Vegas Review-Journal restaurant reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense. E-mail Heidi Knapp Rinella at Hrinella@reviewjournal.com. Find more of her stories at reviewjournal.com and bestoflasvegas.com, and follow @HKRinella on Twitter.