Taste of Baja flavors Las Vegas restaurant scene

The world did not need another Italian restaurant or French restaurant or steakhouse," says Jimmy Maddin, whose Baja California Restaurant and Cantina opened on Cinco de Mayo at 1050 S. Rampart Blvd. at Boca Park.

"Baja California has a lot of traditional Mexican food done regionally and throughout Mexico, but also a lot of familiar food people eat every day, just a little bit fresher ingredients -- nothing deep-fried, or caked-on cheese," he notes.

The ambience of Baja is designed to create a "resort feel" with its water, glass, greenery and tile design, beach-style entrance and mist-sprayed dining area on the patio, Maddin says. The Baja theme continues inside the eatery that is just less than 8,000 square feet and accommodates about 295 patrons.

Additional attractions include a trio of bars, one Maddin says evokes a "swim-up bar" with a full grill; another more traditional, serving cocktails underneath a waterfall; and a third that features "the top 17 mescals in the world and the top tequilas." At two stories tall, a wine cooler stocks 1,200 bottles, and a cigar lounge includes two flat-screen TVs, leather seats and a self-service humidor.

That's atmosphere and amenities, but the real experience, Maddin says, remains the food. "Ninety-five percent of my dishes are under $20," he says, adding that his style is to riff on familiar favorites.

"For instance, a lot of people eat tortillas, but I use duck instead of chicken," Maddin says. "Chicken is a very neutral flavor. Duck has more natural flavor so it's wrapped in a tortilla. And I do some throwbacks to Las Vegas' greatest times, like doing bananas Foster tableside."

Maddin switched names last week, away from the Hotel California Restaurant because it triggered confusion. "Everybody kept calling it the California Hotel, so I put in for a name change," he says.

"I got calls asking, 'Do you have hotel rooms?' "

Baja California Restaurant and Cantina is open 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. Reservations are accepted for parties of eight or more.

Specialties: Chile relleno mar y tierra, with soup or salad, $18; Baja fajitas sampler (feeds three to four people), $45; Jimmy's Favorite Pizza (made with refried beans, jalapenos, carne asada, onions, cilantro and chihuahua cheese), $14

Appetizers: Tuna carpaccio, $11; portabella ceviche (vegetarian dish), $10; three Mulege crab cakes, $15

Soups and salads: Tortilla soup, $7; Baja tuna salad, $13

Entrees: Mexicali linguini, with soup or salad, $18; Swiss enchiladas, $16; Pollo al Mole Rosarito Beach (marinated grilled chicken breast), with soup or salad, $17

Desserts: Pastel de crepes Tijuana (layers of crepes with chocolate mousse, made with semisweet chocolate and Splenda), $7; bananas Foster for two, $13

Information: 463-5200

By STEVE BORNFELD