heidi’s picks

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

CAFE HEIDELBERG

610 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-5310

Despite a pronounced service shortage (read: one woman to serve the entire restaurant) we enjoyed our dinner at Cafe Heidelberg, thanks to the Old World German soul food. We loved the Bavarian potato soup, a special of creamy curried soup, Leberkäse with fried eggs and the Schnitzel Combo, which brings together Wienerschnitzel and Jägerschnitzel. And we sure didn't go away hungry. (5/22/09)

Overall: A- $$$

GOLDEN STEER STEAK HOUSE

308 W. Sahara Ave.; 384-4470

This icon of Old Las Vegas turned 50 in 2008 but hasn't faded a bit, with red-leather U-shaped booths and other decor clearly refreshed without losing any of its period charm. We stuck to the classics with a gin martini, shrimp cocktail, tomato salad, cream of corn, Chicken of the Angels, filet mignon and tableside Cherries Jubilee and were pleased with it all. (1/25/08)

Overall: A- $$$$

SUSHI YAMAGUCHI

5900 W. Charleston Blvd.; 646-0300

No cutesy or risque names for the rolls here; this is an authentic Japanese sushi restaurant, which distinguishes it from plenty of others in the valley. It's a small spot, so you can see the sushi chef work even if you're not right at the sushi bar, and we liked the way he served three of our rolls on one big platter, because it seemed to make mixing-and-matching a little easier. We didn't like that they were out of some common things, but we did like the Firecrackers appetizer, artichoke roll, Alaska roll, shrimp and asparagus roll and the Futomaki, with mushrooms, spinach and crisp squash sticks. (10/31/08)

Overall: B+$$