HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Her reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense.

B&B RISTORANTE

The Venetian, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 266-9977

This is clearly not your parents' Itallian restaurant; ueberchef Mario Batali and partner Joe Bastianich forego the Sinatra for the screamin' guitar and breathe fresh air into their fare, such as a roasted beet salad, prosciutto San Daniele Riserva, orechiette with sweet sausage and rapini, grilled lamb chop with eggplant, roasted cherry tomatoes and a limoncello and poppy seed torta. (9/28/07)

Overall: A- $$$$

DRAGONFLY

3900 Paradise Road; 699-9633

Dragonfly is the Asian-inspired sister of Firefly, the massively successful tapas place next door. It doesn't draw the crowds that Firefly does, and that's a shame because a shared creativity is evident in dishes such as the Vegas Roll, ahi "D-Fly style," Banana Leaf Salmon, cashew chicken and coconut-milk-soaked chocolate cake. (7/27/07)

Overall: A $$

GOLDEN STEER STEAK HOUSE

308 W. Sahara Ave.; 384-4470

This icon of Old Las Vegas turns 50 in 2008 but it hasn't faded a bit, with red-leather U-shaped booths and other decor clearly refeshed without losing any of its period charm. We stuck to the classics with a gin martini, shrimp cocktail, tomato salad, cream of corn, Chicken of the Angels, filet mignon and tableside Cherries Jubilee and were pleased with it all. (1/25/08)

Overall: A- $$$$

HOUSE OF BLUES

Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7605

Who knew that a themed chain restaurant in a casino would have such good Creole/Cajun food -- and not least because it's just about the only game in town? Worthy Big Easy renditions at House of Blues included gumbo and Delta Red Beans and Rice with Andouille Sausage, and we also liked the waffle-cut Gorgonzola fries, baby-back ribs and Key lime pie. (6/6/08)

Overall: A- $$$

LE BURGER BRASSERIE

Paris Las Vegas, 3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 946-7000

OK, so maybe this isn't really the most original idea, but heck, the Strip can alway use another spot with good burgers like Le Paris, with brie, caramelized onions and bacon. Also worthy of note: Le Ferme, a grilled-chicken burger, potato skins, clam chowder and Le Beignets for dessert -- not classic beignets, but tasty nonetheless. (12/21/07)

Overall: B+ $$

LOUIS'S LAS VEGAS

Town Square, 6599 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 202-2400

Louis's chef/owner Louis Osteen is known for his Carolina Lowcountry Cooking but if you're not familiar with the genre, just think Southern. What you'll find at Louis's is an amazing pimento cheese -- yes, as incongruous as that sounds -- and such dishes as she-crab soup, timbale of stone-ground grits with shrimp and shrimp gravy, potato-crusted grouper, lamb shank with parsnip cake and beignets with ice cream, all of them updated riffs on classic dishes. (10/17/08)

Overall: A $$$

MORELS FRENCH STEAKHOUSE & BISTRO

Palazzo, 3325 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 607-6333

Asking us if we'd like filtered tap water instead of bottled charmed us right off the bat, but Morels easily stayed in our good graces with a combination of good service, a pleasant interior (and a patio) and top-notch food that included an amuse-bouche of a prosciutto-wrapped fig with a cherry-ginger reduction, mushroom bisque, a summer heirloom tomato salad, the daily fish (Lock Duart salmon), a Kansas City steak and Truffled Creamed Summer Corn. We even loved the good yeast rolls -- and the tapenade and butter rolled in sea salt that were served with them. (7/4/08)

Overall: A $$$$

R.E. TAPAS KITCHEN AND LOUNGE

467 E. Silverado Ranch Blvd.; 617-9220

One of the best things about tapas spots is that they enable you to share little dishes and try new tastes and that's especially true at R.E., which raises tapas innovation to new heights. Worthy of note: carpaccio of beef, feta fries, grilled hearts of romaine, baked artichoke hearts, quesadilla margarita, rolled eggplant, osso bucco piccolo, albondigas and local chevre cheesecake, for dessert. Oh, and don't forget the sangria. (5/16/08)

Overall: A- $$

RED SQUARE

Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7407

Red Square isn't exactly authentic -- though, to be fair, an authentic Russian restaurant would be a tough sell on the Strip -- but it's gorgeous inside and a lot of fun and serves good food to boot. Particularly worthy of note: the grilled Caesar salad, steak tartare, chicken Kiev, Adzhika Pork and Strawberries Romanoff. (7/20/07)

Overall: B $$$

TABLE 10

Palazzo, 3325 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 607-6363

Emeril Lagasse works his magic again at Table 10, an affectionate nod to the table in his first New Orleans restaurant where planning for the restaurant was done and the staff gathered after the opening. It's a cruise through the world's best cuisines and one that's well worth it, especially in the case of the marinated goat cheese, Tartare Trio, Pasta Jambalaya and Kurobuta pork loin. (9/19/08)

Overall: A $$$$

TRADER VIC'S

Miracle Mile Shops, 3663 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 405-4700

Umbrella drinks aside this is not your father's Trader Vic's; the pan-Asian menu and subdued decor reflect a more sophisticated American diner. We liked the Hawaiian poke, the Kalua pork sliders, Trader Vic's Fried Rice, tofu Thai red curry and nine-spice roasted half chicken; the authentic throwback (which is to say, not too sweet) Mai-Tai made things even better. (1/3/08)

Overall: A- $$

Contact Heidi Knapp Rinella at 383-0474 or e-mail her at hrinella@reviewjournal.com.