HEIDI’S PICKS

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Her reviews are done anonymously at Review-Journal expense.

Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

BOULDER DAM BREWING CO.

453 Nevada Way, Boulder City; 243-2739

The beer's the thing here -- and so is the only real beer garden in Southern Nevada -- but Boulder Dam Brewing Co. offers some pretty solid bar food as well. The bar-staple spinach-and-artichoke dip, for example, was much better than most, and the Brewer's Bratwurst was plump and flavorful. And if the Ploughman's suffered a bit from too-timid cheese and the Bavarian Beer Pretzel was a little too charred, you can't miss with the beer. (10/26/07)

Overall: B $

GOLDEN STEER STEAK HOUSE

308 W. Sahara Ave.; 384-4470

This icon of Old Las Vegas has turned 50 but hasn't faded a bit, with red-leather U-shaped booths and other decor clearly refreshed without losing any of its period charm. We stuck to the classics with a gin martini, shrimp cocktail, tomato salad, cream of corn, Chicken of the Angels, filet mignon and tableside Cherries Jubilee and were pleased with it all. (1/25/08)

Overall: A- $$$$

MARCHE BACCHUS

2620 Regatta Drive; 804-8008

An ownership shift launched Marche Bacchus through some turbulent waters for a little while, but after a chef change and some tinkering, all is well again. We loved the lakeside outdoor terrace and the extensive selection in the retail wine shop - and $10 corkage in the restaurant -- but no less than the artisan cheese platter, beef tartare, rack of lamb, pork chop and flourless chocolate cake. (4/17/09)

Overall: A- $$$

TABLE 10

Palazzo, 3325 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 607-6363

Emeril Lagasse works his magic again at Table 10, an affectionate nod to the table in his first New Orleans restaurant where planning for the restaurant was done and the staff gathered after the opening. It's a cruise through the world's best cuisines and one that's well worth it, especially in the case of the marinated goat cheese, Tartare Trio, Pasta Jambalaya and Kurobuta pork loin. (9/19/08)

Overall: A $$$$