heidi’s picks

Heidi's Picks is a weekly selection of restaurant suggestions from Review-Journal critic Heidi Knapp Rinella. Price symbols are based on the cost of an average entree: $ = entrees less than $10; $$ = entrees between $10 and $20; $$$ = entrees between $20 and $30; and $$$$ = entrees more than $30.

HOFBRAUHAUS LAS VEGAS

4510 Paradise Road; 853-2337

An experience at the Hofbrauhaus has much to do with the room in which one is seated. The rear "indoor beer garden" is almost too quiet, but the raucous front room is more in keeping with the atmosphere of the Munich original. As for the food, the Sauerbraten was a tad on the dry side but the Nürmberger Rostbratwürstl, Bavarian Liver Mousse and Obazter -- Swiss cheese with radishes, butter and rye bread -- and Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte would make Oma proud. (12/17/08)

Overall: B+ $$

J.C. WOOLOUGHAN'S

J.W. Marriott/Rampart Casino, 221 N. Rampart Blvd.; 869-7725

J.C. Wooloughan's is one of those created-in-Ireland-and-brought-to-the-United States Irish pubs, which gives it a lot of charm, but its happy hour prices give it a lot of value as well. Appetizers (and a rotating list of beverages) are $5 each during happy hour, and we liked our soft pretzels with horseradish mustard, deep-fried pickles and Irish sausage rolls -- and the oddly named Obama Mahama martini and lighter-than-Guinness Murphy's Irish Stout. (4/2/10)

Overall: A- $ (at happy hour)

VARADERO CUBAN RESTAURANT

5081 N. Rainbow Blvd.; 463-3609

Ropa vieja with a impressive, multilayered depth of flavor set the tone for our dinner at Varadero Cuban Restaurant, a strip-center standout near the Sante Fe Station. We also thoroughly enjoyed the picadillo-stuffed tostones rellenos, custardy tres leches cake and, to an only slightly lesser extent, a classic arroz con pollo. (1/8/10)

Overall: A-

YOLIE'S

3900 Paradise Road; 794-0700

Service was too slow at Yolie's -- yes, this was during NFR, but after all these years they must know that cowboys like beef -- but beyond that, this pioneer of Las Vegas churrascarias retains a lot of appeal. We did partake in the rodizio of seven different cuts of meat, brought to the table in turn, but also had some shrimp scampi and a nicely executed Feijoada, the black-bean chili-like dish with sausages, ham hocks and spare ribs. (12/18/09)

Overall: B $$$