Dining Pick of the Week: Island Style

3909 W. Sahara Ave., No. 1, 702-871-1911

It’s easy to miss, but once you find it, if you like real Hawaiian, Chinese and Korean fare, you’ll be coming back for more. Since 1991, Island Style has been offering cuisine true to its roots. Not sure what it’s like? Just step inside and fill your lungs with the aroma. Part of the popularity is due to chef Brian Oh, who became a partner about three years ago. He honed his expertise by cooking in some of Los Angeles’ five-star restaurants. He joined Gina Matsushita, who started the eatery with her late husband, Ivan. Expect no frills — the entry door has no sign and no logo, and tables are plain wood with functional office chairs. The only decorations are a few photos up on the back wall to show newbies what they can order. But you’re not here for frills; you’re here for food. The menu uses Asian names and character fonts followed (thank goodness) by English explanations. Jajang bap is rice topped with black soy bean sauce, for example. Sogogi jam bang is a spicy noodle soup with beef. Samsun gan ja jang is stir-fried noodles with black bean soy sauce. Matsushita said the most popular dishes are the jjam ja myeun (spicy noodle soup with stir-fried noodles in a black bean sauce), mul bi myeun (cold noodles), a combo plate with kalbi (tofu soup), meat jun and barbecue chicken. The Spam sandwiches and breakfast eggs made with Spam luncheon meat also are big favorites. “The Hawaiians love their Spam,” she said. Sandwiches start at $5.95, with platters starting at $10.95. A word of warning: When driving to Island Style, the parking is slanted, so be sure to enter via Las Verdes Street. Hours are from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday.