Chefs elegantly compete to represent US in Bocuse d’Or — PHOTOS

Legendary chef Thomas Keller stepped to the microphone to announce the winner — the team that will represent the United States in the world’s most prestigious culinary competition, the Bocuse d’Or.

“Team USA, on the road to Lyon for 2019, is Matthew Kirkley,” Keller said, cheers and cowbell noisemakers erupting immediately from the foodies gathered in a Palazzo ballroom.

“I’m excited to represent my country, humbled for the opportunity, and looking forward to the next step,” Kirkley said.

Winning formula

The Bocuse d’Or is a biennial competition, the finals of which are held in Lyon, France. It was founded by, and is named after, French master chef Paul Bocuse. Kirkley will take the U.S. into the 2019 finals as as defending champion, after Matthew Peters brought the nation its first gold medal this year. In doing so, his team fulfilled a promise Team USA chairman Keller had made to Bocuse himself, who had long wanted the U.S. to show that its chefs can compete on a world stage and win.

“And we did both,” Keller said of January’s win.

To find a team to follow up that win, he and his organization returned to the Venetian and Palazzo conference areas, where Peters’ team had been selected.

“This isn’t (made) for TV,” said Jay Grymyr, a restaurant veteran who works on the Strip and bought a ticket to witness the battle firsthand. “You won’t see this on The Food Network, unfortunately.”

The competition was nothing like the countless cooking competitions available on basic cable. The contenders weren’t rushed, working with oddball ingredients or subject to any big surprises — either accidental or planned. The three two-person teams were provided with top-of-the-line equipment and ingredients, and allowed five hours and 35 minutes to create two platters, one centering on steelhead trout, the other American wagyu beef.

And unlike many of their TV counterparts, they never lost their cool or threw tantrums. Teams functioned like well-oiled machines, quietly assembling sumptuous feasts for some of the world’s finest culinary masters with zen-like focus. The results displayed an elegance that surpassed the presentations of Las Vegas’ finest restaurants.

The competition pitted Kirkley and his commis (assistant), Mimi Chen, of San Francisco’s Coi, against two other teams. Chef Jeffery Hayashi and commis Brionna Morrison also hailed from San Francisco, representing the restaurant Mourad, while Chef Anthony Benjamin Grupe and commis Jared Dix represented Elaia & Olio in St. Louis.

Keller and chef Daniel Boulud, both of whom are on the board of Team USA, were joined by a panel of judges that included chefs Andre Soltner, Paul Bartolotta and Roland Passot. Several local chefs stopped by to observe.

Team Coi had the momentum entering the competition. Just last month, their restaurant was awarded its third Michelin star: the highest award in the restaurant world, currently bestowed on fewer than 100 restaurants.

But it was the Midwesterners who brought the most boisterous crowd. Most of their excited fan base wore T-shirts for “Team Grupe.”

“I’m a soccer fanatic, and this is something similar to watching a World Cup final, with the emotions and everything building up throughout the day,” said Andrew Cisneros, Grupe’s sous chef in St. Louis.

The road ahead

The team will be able to get a little rest before the end of the year. But once 2018 rolls around, they’ll start training full time.

Unlike previous years, when the U.S. was guaranteed a spot at the international championship in France, the road to Lyon runs through Mexico City. On April 12-13, a qualifying event for the Americas will be held in the Mexican capital, where just three teams will be chosen to progress to the main event.

Keller’s sights are set high.

“I think what we want to do is continue to challenge ourselves in a way that establishes, you know, a, um a, not necessarily,” his voice trails off and he laughs as he stumbles over his words, clearly trying to remain humble as he finishes the thought. “I don’t want to say a dynasty. But we’ve talked about that kind of line. We’re very competitive. What we want to do is establish ourselves.”

Kirkley is more direct: “We’re gonna play this to win. Our hope is to represent our country well.”

Menus, please

The three teams at the Bocuse d’or Team USA selection were each charged with preparing a seafood platter and beef platter based on proteins by the competition’s sponsor. Both creations had to reflect the country they represent, and serve 11 judges. Here’s what they came up with in five hours and 35 minutes.

Ben Grupe Menu

Norwegian Steelhead Trout “Cambacérès”

Gently smoked belly

Vermouth braised cucumber, pumpernickel, Osetra caviar

Carrot custard

Farmer Lee’s carrot glacé

Caviar beurre blanc

Roasted Snake River Farms Wagyu Beef Ribeye

Rye en croute

Foraged mushroom farce, tarragon crepe, leek ash

Broccoli and eggplant terrine

Tarragon emulsion, black garlic